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By Jenn LaVardera, MS RD
With diversity a major topic in the United States, “Eat Global … Cook Local” was the theme of the Fourth Annual Food Lab Conference at Stony Brook Southampton. The conference, held on September 14-15, sought to explore the role of immigration, assimilation and acceptance in community food systems; the influence of culture and heritage on the foods we eat today; the power food has in bringing communities together; and the effect of different methods and processes in large-scale food production.
“Most people have an understanding of what local means,” said Brian Halweil, editor-in-chief of Edible East End, Long Island, Brooklynand Manhattan, citing local to be food produced within a 150-mile radius, or driving distance. “Organic is the label we have to worry about.”
The "One Long Table" at the Food Lab Conference.
To Halweil and other farmers across the east end, organic is not the most cutting-edge eco-label for food producers to use. Citing recent changes to organic legislation such as the allowance of hydroponics, the tremendous amount of effort required to achieve and maintain organic certification, and the lack of monitoring by USDA and other organizations, many Long Island-based farmers have chosen not to apply for the organic certification.
For Scott Chaskey, farmer, founder and director at Quail Hill Farm in Amagansett, New York, organic has transformed into a marketing ruling. “For grassroots organic farmers, it’s so much more than that,” he said. According to Chaskey, the farm has never changed their practices and operates with methods that he feels are stronger than the certified organic requirements.
Quail Hill Farm sits on 35 acres of land donated to the Peconic Land Trust, a program committed to preserving Long Island’s working farms and natural lands. Quail Hill is one of the country’s first Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) farms with public education on soil health and sustainable organic farming practices central to its mission. Though Quail Hill is not certified organic, they sign the annual Farmer’s Pledge of the Northeast Organic Farming Association, New York (NOFA-NY) “to sustain the land in healthy condition for future generations,” demonstrating their commitment to their practices and dedication to the land.
“Food is one of the bright spots in American cultural diversity,” said Long Island chef Colin Ambrose and journalist Biddle Duke in the opening session. “We come together around food.”
Just one of the global dishes served during the 2018 Food Lab dinner!
Later in the day, local farmers, ranchers and food producers sat on a panel to discuss what it means to be a local food producer and the role of labels and marketing in agricultural.
To the local panelists, certifications and labels can never compare to the knowledge gained from meeting the people who produce your food. According to Katie Baldwin, owners and farmer at Amber Waves in Amagansett, New York, “Having a conversation with your farmer is the most important thing you can do for your health.”
